Walking Amongst Giants: My Tour du Mont Blanc Adventure
- Janire
- Jun 4
- 6 min read
Written by Gemma Popejoy
Unusually for me I didn’t overthink Tour du Mont Blanc. A friend told me it was incredible, and that was all the convincing I needed. Within days, I’d booked it; 170km of high mountain trails circling Mont Blanc, crossing through France, Italy and Switzerland. We’d be climbing
over 1,000 metres most days, add all that climbing up, and by the end of the trek, you’ve climbed higher than Everest. I’d never done anything quite like it. It was longer, steeper, and tougher than any challenge I’d taken on before. But it had everything I love most in the
world; snow-capped peaks, alpine huts, and great food.
While some hike TMB solo, I opted for a guided group for ease and togetherness, and I’m so glad I did. That wonderful group made my trip and have become lifelong friends. Something special happens over long days on the trail. A year later, we still message often, celebrating
milestones, swapping stories, and plotting new adventures.
To prepare, I ran daily 5Ks and hiked hills on weekends. I packed obsessively, trimming my kit to exactly 10kg-even weighing my pants to save grams. I felt pretty proud… until I met my new hiking buddies, who had packed books, speakers, wine, and even jeans. Lesson one:
people hike in different ways.
The Beginning: Girl Power in Chamonix
Chamonix, the TMB’s start and end point, is easily reached by bus from Geneva airport. It’s picturesque and beautiful- think The Sound of Music in technicolour. I instantly wished I’d planned more time there post-hike to soak it all in.
Our base, Hôtel Pointe Isabelle, named after legendary female alpinist Isabella Straton felt very appropriate! As a woman standing at the start of her own mountain journey, staying in a place honouring one of the early female pioneers of alpinism felt symbolic, quietly powerful,
quietly encouraging.
We set off early on Day 1 under blue skies with our first up-close view of Mont Blanc. I had all the feels, excitement, awe, and fear. Can I actually do this?
Day One: An Expensive Lesson on a Hot Trail
It was July. It was 37°C. None of us were used to the weight of our packs or the relentless climb on that first day yet (though we did get used to is surprisingly quickly!) The trail was beautiful, straight out of Heidi, but my feet were on fire. I’d worn my trusty UK-weather
boots… a rookie mistake in that heat. I battled the pain in silence to the top of Col de Tricot, wondering how I’d last nine more minutes, let alone nine more days.
That evening, while the others clinked beers, I limped into a trailhead shop (I suspect strategically placed to catch idiots like me) and bought the most expensive pair of trail runners I’ve ever owned. After obsessing over weight before I set off, I now carried an extra 2.5kg of boots the rest of the way because I couldn’t bear to part with them.
From Then On: Onwards and Upwards
From the moment I laced up my comfy new shoes, everything changed. Each day brought big climbs to mountain passes called Cols where we crossed into a new country and then followed snow-lined trails down into lush green valleys. I’ve tried but I can’t pick a favourite
‘Col’ they were all just magic with magnificent views every single time.
Each day we climbed together, cheered each other on, and shared stories, snacks and a lot of desserts. The blueberry tart at Rifugio Elisabetta deserves special mention. Our guide Pedro taught us patience and presence, and led us with his signature “mind the gap” warnings. We debated endlessly with him what qualified as a “gap” versus a sheer cliff…
The scenery never stopped giving: jagged peaks, glacial lakes, wildflower meadows, and emerald valleys dotted with wooden chalets. We saw so much wildlife, including marmots, and various birds and also side stepped around lots of very big, very curious cows.
The weather was glorious until the last, wet and moody final day. Pedro snagged us a coveted spot out of the rain at the very rustic (think cow shed) and very famous Alpage De Bovine where they serve the ‘Worlds Best Rosti’. I can confirm it is the World’s Best Rosti. Potatoes and cheese have never tasted so good.
And the sunsets. Wow. Refugio Bonatti, and the Grand Jorasses balcony perched high in the Italian Alps, gave us a sunset I’ll never forget.
Evenings at the refuges were bliss Tired but elated, we ate hearty three-course dinners, played cards, and took part in plank challenges led by Steve, our resident fitness nut. We laughed until our sides hurt. And every night we crawled into our cosy bunks and feel asleep to the
sound of cowbells tinkling in the distance. We woke each morning to fresh coffee and crisp mountain air. Honestly, there’s nothing better.
Our Final Day: What’s Next?
On our last morning, we stood near the Aiguille du Midi, watching tiny ant-like mountaineers inch toward the summit of Mont Blanc. My stomach flipped. Seeing it so close, the size and scale of the giant lit something inside me. I want to go up there. And now, thanks to this TMB journey, I believe I can.
What I Learned (and What You Might Too)
The TMB is not easy. But it’s absolutely achievable. It will stretch you, but it will also show you just how strong you are. If you’re even thinking about doing it-do it and do it with a group of strangers. Often, those strangers quickly become friends, and together, they completely transform your journey into an unforgettable shared adventure. On the last night we celebrated our TMB adventure with matching t-shirts and burgers, and it was genuinely one of the most amazing unforgettable moments of my life, I am so grateful to have met those
people.
I went into the mountains hoping just to make it round. I came down changed, stronger, braver, and more connected to myself and to the people I shared it with.
Gemma’s Top TMB Tips
1. Book early and wisely. The best refuges like Bonatti fill up fast. Check your itinerary for where you will be staying each night and stopping for lunch. And look for reviews about your guide. You do not want to be rushed.
Footwear is everything. If you're hiking in high heat, your feet need to breathe. Break in your shoes properly, and don’t make my mistake.
Pause often. Pedro taught us to stop, look around, and soak it all in. Some of my best memories came from those quiet pauses. You will be wishing you were back there quicker than you think when you return to reality.
Your body will surprise you. My body quickly got used to all that climbing in the heat, your body adapts quickly. You are always stronger than you think.
About the Author
Gemma is an amateur mountaineer and trainee mountain leader. When not on a mountain she helps people succeed at hard things in business as a change consultant. After getting a little lost in life, she found her way back to herself in the mountains—and has never looked back.
Gemma and I (Janire) met on a group trip to Peru in August 2024 where we completed the Inca Trail together. I was so inspired by Gemma's story and her tenacity and empowering growth mindset, we became good friends and have kept in touch ever since! We have big mountain dreams and aim to work together on some incredible adventures in the future!
Ready to Take on the Tour Du Mont Blanc?
Whether you're dreaming of crisp mountain air, postcard-perfect valleys, or just want to test your legs on one of Europe’s most iconic trails, the Tour du Mont Blanc delivers in spades.
Still got questions? Drop us a message in the comments below or email us on hello@rayofsunadventures.com
The TMB trip bookings are now LIVE for those who registered their interest. Bookings will go public in July. If you're interested in joining this trip check out the TMB trip details where you can register your interest and be the first to hear about when bookings go public here: https://www.rayofsunadventures.com/event-details-registration/full-tour-du-mont-blanc-trek
Excellent read. Suitably inspiring. Conjuring yeti vibes and making me want to book.
Wow Gemma speaking as your proud dad I would like to say, amazing things happen if you dare to dream. Taking a blind leap of faith, giving up your corporate job to follow your heart I know you had no idea where this journey was leading, but when I look at all the amazing places you have been, to the write ups and photos you have sent me, I can feel myself there with you, your writing is so descriptive. I have felt you grow in strength step by step. We can’t wait for your first book!! I remember when you told me you were going to climb Everest BC- following in my footsteps. We are both so very prou…
Brilliant piece, wonderfully capturing the TMB. Beautiful. Adventurous. Challenging. Inspiring.
Wow, how inspiring to hear about your amazing adventures! I’m in awe of your resilience and fantastic attitude to all your challenges, thanks for the helpful tips for us beginners too. I eagerly await the next chapter!
What a wonderful adventure to embark upon and so inspiring to read about your experiences!
I'm certainly not a hiker but you make the challenge sound so worthwhile and rewarding. Great to learn some top tips too!